I did do a quick check on eBay and the mouse didn’t seem to be collectible. Sorry to any Commodore fans out there if this sacrifice is a tragedy.
#HOW TO OPEN A LOGITECH MOUSE SERIAL#
To repair the faulty switch an old serial port mouse was sacrificed. To remove the scroll wheel assembly, there is a locking pin that has to be removed which is rather unique. The main trick is removing the scroll wheel assembly – but there are no screws. Removing the main circuit board from the mouse is tricky. The limit switches are made by OMRON and have a part number of D2FC-F-7N. Perhaps there is some defacto standard? The double-click culprit. The mouse button limit switches looked surprisingly similar in size and shape to other computer mice that I’d pulled apart. To my surprise there was more hardware internal to the mouse than I was expecting. Take care of the small cable attached to the top half of the mouse The two halves of the case easily separate with only 1 internal plastic clip situated under the thumb rest. Take care when removing and keep them upside down. You want to ensure the sticky backing remains clean so put in a safe place upside down. Behind the nylon feet are four small philips head screws.Take extra care when removing the feet to avoid peeling the nylon from the sticky backing. Getting into the mouse requires removing the nylon feet on the mouse’s underside. Not wanting to replace an otherwise perfectly good wireless mouse this was a good opportunity to teardown and hopefully repair. After 6 years of service, the left click button had finally failed and was getting stuck. What was the problem? Single left clicks had become double clicks. This nasty habit began as an annoyance one day and then had snowballed to all out rage two days later. Just the other day my trusty Logitech Performance MX wireless mouse began a nasty habit.
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